No two omakase restaurants are the same. The shape, style and success of an omakase specialist all depends on the chef at the helm, whose knowledge base and skillset dictates restaurant’s identity as much as available ingredients dictates the daily menu. Fumiki’s Sushi Kappo, a small Kyoto-style reservation-only omakase restaurant located in the backstreets of Robertson, is an establishment where nearly everything – from the tableware to the suppliers – has been selected by the chef, Fumiki Hayashi. His resume is extensive, spanning a stint as executive chef at Brisbane icon Sono to leading roles at Melbourne establishments like Nobu at Crown Melbourne, Akaiito, Izakaya Kuuraku, Shoya and Saké (as well as a stopover at heralded kaiseki restaurant Sumiya Ryokan in Kyoto).

Each posting and elevation up the ranks was a calculated move on the way to Fumiki’s end goal – a traditional omakase restaurant of his own. “This type of dining is what I’m good at,” says Fumiki. “I’ve been doing this for the past 15 to 18 years – at the sushi bar serving customers that sometimes come in and say, ‘I don’t want to look at the menu. Just serve me whatever.’”

After returning to Brisbane a couple of years ago to be closer to family, Fumiki decided the time was ripe to plant roots and open his dream restaurant – one where he could show off his finely honed skills. “I wanted to build a high end [restaurant], but with a homely and warm atmosphere – like how you feel when you’re in Japan,” Fumiki reveals. “People sit for three or four hours, talk to the chef, drink slowly and enjoy the food.”

Fumiki’s Sushi Kappo is tucked away in a serene neighbourhood pocket, occupying a tenancy in the small shopping strip of Robertson Village on Barrett Street. An understated entrance leads guests into a small, dramatically lit dining room, where a timber dining counter with room for eight dissects the space. The vibe is intimate, with curtains shielding the interior from the outside world. The restaurant is sparsely adorned, with a minimalist decorative scheme serving to draw attention to Fumiki as he assembles and plates each morsel. “We are trying to replicate what you experience in, say Kyoto, but in a Brisbane way,” says Fumiki of his restaurant’s aesthetic, which hews close to the traditional style of Japan’s intimate eateries.

Though minimally decorated, there’s magic in the small details – think artisan-crafted glassware and ornate bowls. “Everything else you see when you sit down and eat, from chopsticks to place mats, is all specially made in Japan. All the plates are carefully selected – glassware, cups, everything. They’re all from Japan and selected carefully for the customers best experience.”

While omakase cuisine is starting to become more popular in Brisbane, the term kappo might be unfamiliar to some. Kappo-style cuisine sits somewhere between formal kaiseki dining and an informal izakaya experience, where interaction between chef and customer is a core part of the experience. “Kappo style is similar to kaiseki, but in a casual way,” says Fumiki. “It’s cut and cook with whatever you get from the day.” The restaurant’s multi-course meal follows the standard omakase footprint – guests leave their experience in the capable hands of the chef, who turns out plate after plate made from of-the-moment seasonal ingredients.

At Fumiki’s Sushi Kappo, guests will savour between 15 to 18 courses, starting with a procession of cold and warm dishes, followed by a number of artfully prepared sushi, a soup course and then dessert to finish. Fumiki works with suppliers to source exceptional seafood from Queensland, showcasing cuts of coral trout, whiting, golden trevally, trawler-fresh prawns and yellowfin tuna from the Sunshine Coast. On a technical level, Fumiki shows his capable skill via delicate scaling methods and multi-day seafood ageing processes, where he monitors temperature control to enhance the texture and flavour of his fish. Dishes also feature vegetables, herbs and garnishes grown in Fumiki’s own garden, including fresh yuzu, Japanese maple leaf, mizuna and red shiso.

Though small changes are made daily, Fumiki’s Sushi Kappo’s offering will follow a seasonal theme, with broad alterations made as the weather shifts. Drinks wise, a short sake list is on offer alongside white wine, Japanese draught beer, whisky and Japanese tea. It adds up to one of Brisbane’s most authentic omakase experiences. “I want to say that my style is really traditional and authentic,” says Fumki of his restaurant’s identity. “If you dine here and go to Japan, you feel there’s not much of a difference.”